27.8.07

Back at Alotau

Well we are back at Alotau and much sooner than we wanted. We have been to a couple of places. Wagawaga which is a small village where there is a ship wreck from the war not far off the beach the bow sticks out of the water but the stern is supposed to be in 80 foot of water we stayed here for a couple of nights. The kids had a great time playing with all the local kids. They did heaps swimming and the boys had a go of the dug out canoes which was fun to watch as they capsized a few times.
Next we went on to Doini Island which was really beautiful very clean and nice beach. We spent a couple of nights here also. We did a bit of snorkeling and we found some lovely shells on the beach. We also went for a dingy ride over to Gona Bara Bara Island where there is a manta ray cleaning station we weren’t sure where it was so we asked some locals who showed us but we didn’t see any manta rays wrong time of year for a lot to be around. There was patches of coral and the boys tried spear fishing but caught nothing.
We were heading to the Louisiades our original plan for PNG but there was a vibration in the drive shaft which would come and go and would go when the rev’s was changed. We thought that the bearing in the prop shaft was causing the noise and may need replacing. We went to slipway to find out about being hauled out and if they had the bearing. Here they use wood or brass bearings not rubber and teflon like in Australia. So to cut a long story short we waited around for 5 days for the owner to turn up but we never saw him. They couldn’t do what we wanted and we would have to get the part from Australia. On the third night we had a heap of things stolen including all the snorkeling gear and the weight belt I need to dive, 4 fuel containers, a fishing rod, clothes and towels which were drying and a few other things. We had been warned to lock everything away before coming to PNG (should have listened to your warning Grumps) but we got slack and we had nothing but a good time with no problems before that. Just goes to show how no matter where you are it only takes a few to spoil things for others. The snorkeling things and fuel containers had to be replaced that’s why we are back in Alotau. We managed to replace the snorkels and flippers Amy couldn’t get flippers as her feet are too small, we couldn’t get another weight belt and we bought another fuel container. Tomorrow we head off for the Lousisade’s. We will be making sure that we lock everything away in future.
We will have the satellite phone turned on in the evenings while we are here (Australia time) as we are out most of the day and can be hard to catch us.

16.8.07

After 93 hours we dropped anchor at Samarai Island at 3 am on the 12th August(Daniel didn’t get off the boat on his birthday). The crossing was pretty rough for the first 3 days and no one could eat due to sea sickness. The following is typical for all on board
Day 1 – one slice of dry bread
Day 2 – one slice of dry bread and about 6 of mints
Day 3 – two slices of dry bread and ran out of mints
last day – weather calmer so slowly started eating normally
Every thing on the boat got a good soaking. All the hatches and vents leak water and as waves were coming across the deck the front cabin was soaking wet. The only real dry place was the aft cabin.
We had a few hours sleep and woke to kids paddling around in dugout canoes. The customs guy on the island was away so we were told that it would be alright to come ashore anyway. Europeans are called Dim Dims and where ever these Dim Dims walked we were the centre of attention. The kids made friends with just about all the kids on the island and were busy playing soccer, fishing, lighting fires on the beach and even cooked a fish on our deck over a hexam fire.
The people over here chew a beetle nut which is a drug and mix it with mustard or lime or and it rots their teeth and their mouth are bright red / orange
Samarai use to be an administration centre but now there are only two little stores operating. Our notes said that there was a bank and post office and we expected we could get currency exchange and any extra supplies. One thing we need is 2 stroke oil for the dingy and we couldn’t get that. There is a public phone on the island that only takes phone cards but no one sells the cards(sorry lovey I didn’t ring you)
Out of necessity we sailed around to Alotau, which is now the admin centre for the Milne Bay Provence. It has a few banks and super markets a hardware and a market. The supermarket that we went to had about 10 security guards and one of them told Kathleen that her wallet was showing from her pocket and to watch out for pick pockets. On the way to the market a guy came over and asked if we wanted to buy some carvings, we said we would look and we went over to the market to look at them as it was pooring down with rain. Soon there were another 2 guys showing us carvings and we had quite an audience looking at the Dim Dims looking at carvings. A guy told me that there would soon be heaps of them so I hurried Wendy up, who was having a great time flashing her Kina(currency) around. And we went back to the boat. Another few people told us about pick pockets, it is not the type of place to be after dark. There were hundreds of people in the street and we saw now other Dim Dims.

15.8.07

We made it!

After 93 hours we dropped anchor at Samaria.
We had 3 day of rough weather and everyone was sea sick and everything in the boat got soaked. We are now in Alotau and this is only a quick post as we are about to have a meal. All is well but still wet, we will post more details when we get back to oz.

7.8.07

cleared customs

We are set to leave early tomorrow morning. Customs came to the boat and stamped our passports and we picked up a satellite phone this morning. We have loaded over $1000 worth of groceries on board, 500 litres of fuel and 600 litres of water. It is the first time everyone, except Wendy, has been out of the country and we are all excited. Our forecast is for 20-25knots of wind pretty much on our beam most of the way with seas about 8 feet. We have confidence in the boat and ourselves but as this is the first time to be out of sight of land we are glad to have the sat phone. We have 460 miles to sail and if we average 6 knots will be there in 3.5 days which will be Saturday 11th August, which is Daniels Birthday, probably his best present will be to get off the boat.
The phone number of the Satellite phone is 0147160508, if your calling from overseas you will probably have to dial 61 and drop the 0, not sure. Call cost are supposed to be expensive though. It can send and receive sms which may be cheaper.
We may not be able to post any blogs while we are over there, except maybe Samarai, so we will catch up when we are back in the country in about 6 weeks.
Wish us fair winds and smooth seas.
The Crew, Saltheart

6.8.07

Cairns, our departure point

We have been in Cairns for just over a week now. The city of Cairns is a real tourist destination with international flights coming and going all the time. We have been busy trying to get everything ready for the trip to PNG. We are now organized and have been cleared by customs to leave by Thursday. The boys have even had a go at buskin they earnt themselves a couple of dollars each but it was a good experience for them.


While we have been here we have also checked out the area. We have been swimming in the lagoon, a huge pool on the water front which is free and used by everyone as there is no beach just mud flats at low tide and crocs in the river. We have been swimming a few times there which has been fun. There are signs all along the foreshore warning people not to swim because of the crocs.



We have met up with a few boats here some we had met before we came and had BBQ’s and even a movie night most of the boats we have met have kids on so our guys have had a ball playing with everyone at every opportunity they get. We have even been to the movies here.
We took the sky rail up to Kuranda up in the hills behind Cairns. It was the longest sky rail I have ever been on it is 7.5km long with 114 gondola’s on it. We got off on both of the stops along the way to check out the sights, waterfalls and rainforest. The trip without stops goes for 45 minutes and the view back to the ocean below is amazing. Amy was a little scared to start with holding onto my arm but was fine after a while. At Kuranda we had a look around there was supposed to be a market on but the whole place was set up like a market. A lot of shops along the street looked like market stalls. We didn’t really think a lot of the place itself we did this trip for the sky rail and scenic train ride back down through the valley.

The train ride was great the train is the original train which was once used to transport hospital patients and workers to and from work. The trip was 1hr 45mins during that time you heard about different things that happened along the train tracks construction and other things as well, it was very interesting. All the windows open right up and we could take heaps of pictures and see everything at a slow pace. We almost stopped in front of one of the waterfalls the boys were busy taking photos of the falls and the train itself as it went through tunnels and over bridges. It was a great day out. It was all too much for Amy she fell asleep on the train on the way back.

Hinchinbrook Channel

The Hinchinbrook Channel is supposed to be one the prettiest channels with good fishing, crabbing and crocodiles. There aren’t many places to get ashore and no walking trails except at the northern end of the channel. We dropped anchor at Haycock Island a very small island in the river. We took a dingy ride to try and get ashore and have a look at the island but no where to get up with no oysters. Then we decided to take a fishing rod and do a bit of trolling and try our luck. Ian was saying what we should do if a croc attacked the dingy (not that they would) and scared the kids so we didn’t troll for long. There were heaps of mangroves around but not too many sand flies.

We then moved another few miles up the channel to a creek we dropped anchor Ian suggested to Warenta that we raft up as it is really calm. The creek isn’t very wide and all the boats are almost in a line going down the length of it. One of the boats here is Kalida a boat we had met on Magnetic Island they have 2 children and the kids were glad to see their boat.


We spent a few days here doing nothing at all but sitting around and relaxing. We had a BBQ with Kalida aboard Warenta which was great fun, we also met up with a couple who have two boys off Stardancer. The kids had a great time playing with each other. They are both heading up to Cairns which is where we will clear customs to go to PNG.







Moving further north we stopped for a night a Dunk Island where we went for a bit of a walk and collected some shells before going onto Fitzroy Island where we planned on staying but it didn’t look like it was going to be comfortable so we moved on to Cairns it was a big day’s sail over 80 miles further than we have gone yet in one day. We did see a humpback whale when we were around Fitzroy Island for a couple of minutes but I wasn’t quick enough to get a photo.

We are now in Cairns and are getting everything ready for the passage to PNG. We have had a few things to sort out and we have to stock up on supplies as well as things to trade while we are over there. We plan on leaving here around the weekend or Monday

Trying to get Palm nuts on Dunk Island.